KENYA! and other things

Dear all,

Apologies for the delay! I got stuck in North Uganda for 3 weeks. No. Not really but it would have been exciting. It's dangerous up there, don't you know.

I will give you an overview of the last 2-3 weeks, as usual in very high detail. This is High Definition guys. Prepare for crisp imagery with vivid colours and some glowing metaphors. It'll seem so real you'll think you can touch it.

The Weeks Before The Holiday (check out this new layout! I want feedback)

Not an awful lot happened that's memorable. That’s why I didn't email two weeks ago..

We said goodbye to one of the schools because we're on holiday for 2 weeks and when we come back we just miss them. The school is called Nansuse Bright and has around 100 children. It was a strange affair. The kids were ordered to perform for us like circus animals! Mind you we're used to this and they enjoy it. There were 3 choirs and they sang about 6 songs and did a drama about fires in schools. Its a huge problem in Uganda right now. 43 schools have been burnt in 3 months after a school called Budo Primary was burnt down and 20 girls died. Apparently its mostly school kids angry at the school/teachers after harsh discipline. Its something Ugandan churches should be praying against. Any how, the kids singing was enjoyable and they were pretty talented. Later we ate lunch which was an awkward affair. We ate with the teachers most of which we don't know (we only know Maria who translated for us and teaches P1 to P3 classes). So we all sat in silence, about 12 of us around a rather old table. The table promptly collapsed, slowly, sliding away from us like something out of Mr Bean or Chaplin. and threating to fold up. Luckily some of the male teachers caught it on the way down and the food was saved. They rigged it so it wouldn't fall again but it stayed at a slant. No one else found this amusing and we continued in silence. And the food was pretty bad. No, most of it was fine. Just far too much. Normally you wouldn't get beans, posho, potato, beef and rice all in one meal! We'd have posho and beans or irish and cabbage. So I was stuffing myself with food (we were also in a rush because we had to go to another school at 2pm- we went to 3 schools on a thursday) and keeping quiet about really fatty meat with lots of gristle (we're to getting bad quality meat but I still leave it). It was awkward because I felt they were spoiling us. The teachers were eating the same as us but had half as much. I finished and felt sick. Then we went to the next school, running rather late but not running, more of a slow march of duty.

The Safari

We had chosen to start our holiday with a 4 day safari in Uganda then move on to a beach in Kenya for 8 days. We had checked prices for a safari in Kenya but had been quoted $12,000 for 7 of us. We laughed and promptly left the travel agency. So we decided to do it ourselves, finding a cheap safari guide in Kampala. The director of Oasis Uganda, a pleasant soul called Gill, has married a huge Ugandan body builder called Carlos. Now Carlos runs a safari business with his brother so he was first port of call. The girls wanted Carlos to be our guide because he was so strong but we ended up with his brother (this was really good as I really liked his brother) who was called Steve (that classic African name). The safari cost only £200 for 4 days with travel, food and accommodation (camping) all included. We left on Monday morning but the night before we had a mini party to say goodbye to a few close friends. Then I stayed up til 3:30am writing a list of all I'd need for 2 weeks packing. We woke at 5am to leave at 6. The journey to Queen Elizabeth Park took about 6 hours. I got used to weeing by the side of the road. We made it there around 6 and I realised we'd be doing proper camping and our guide had brought tents (I thought we might have tents like carroty wood). There was no fence around the campsite. It was just a piece of land. So the hippos, hyenas, elephants, warthogs and lions could wonder in and kill us in our sleep. But we had a secret weapon...fire! Our guide said we would have a fire every night which excited me and Elias (who was a scout). I love fire. so we built big fires every night out of huge logs collected by the rangers. Each day would be spent mostly chasing Lions and breaking down. The lion chasing wasn't that fun because we didn't actually see any. We spent the first day searching for the famous tree climbing lions but they were hiding. Then we broke down 2 hours from anywhere (Steve forgot to fill up on petrol). We had to drive 4 hours to another part of the park to see the lions and he didn't realise we'd spent so long on the unsuccessful lion hunt. He then walked off, leaving us in an African wilderness. I remember watching Steve walking down a dusty road without saying a word to us. We wondered if he'd come back before nightfall. After 2 hours he arrived on a motorbike and said he'd get a jerry can of diesel. It came half an hour later and we were back on our way. I love the casual and carefree manner in which Africans operate in. There was no safety briefing at the campsite just be careful of the elephants and the hippos. When asked what do if you were confronted by a hippo/lion/elephant he said - "just stay still and quiet until you can think of something better to do". I found this highly amusing along with many other things Steve said. So the safari rolled on (literally- we were sitting in the minibus nearly all day everyday) and we didn't see any lions. Then on the second day we broke down again. This time it was a little more serious. The switch between 4 wheel drive and 2 WD broke locking the wheels. Loads of other safari jeeps were driving past us and they had all seen lions! So frustrating. Steve had followed a bad tip off that the lions were on the move and his friend knew where. So we missed em and had to wait an hour before his friend could pick us up. We met some other tourists from New York in the back of the jeep and were really friendly and kind. Chatted to them for a while- we shared the same political views (Democrats: I took a risk and openly criticised the war in Iraq -they were young and arty and from New York so what are the chances?) So then we went on a boat cruise which was fun. The next day was the last day. We woke at 5:30 (same as every morning, it was killing me) and were supposed to go on one last game drive but it was raining quite heavily. So the idea was to head back to Kampala. But the roads leading out of the park were dirt roads. Dirt plus water = mud. So pretty soon, with only 2WD we were sliding all over the place and we got stuck half on half off the road. So everyone out and push. Well that didn't work so we waited for help- the Cavalry were on their way. Soon enough about 3 Jeeps full of friendly tourists. Some were Flemish. They got out, greeted us and seemed to enjoy the drama. Five minutes later about about 6 of 7 vehicles were waiting behind us full of whites starting their day of safari. Eventually a jeep pulled us free and very carefully and after 3 hours Steve drove us out of the park (we had only driven 10miles). We arrived back in Kampala at 7:30pm throughly exhausted. The girls had done a good job of booking an ok hotel right next to the coach park where we needed to be at 6:30 the next morning. That night we went to a very posh Chinese restaurant because it was Poppy's 21st birthday. We had fun. The food was ok. Not as good as Chinese in London. I felt ill after the meal and had been feeling all day in the car-headaches and dizziness and temperature. This would continue throughout the 24 hour bus journey the next day.

Kenya

Our journey to Kenya started off OK and with relative comfort. We had wisely chosen to go 1st class which was ok. The first bus -Kampala to Nairobi- was pretty old but the Kenyan driver (there were two, they switched after 6 hours- very safe, I was impressed) stuck some old Japanese film on which was strange/amusing/slightly fascinating. It was very retro with poor special effects but quite cool. For those interested its called " Cyber Ninja " 1988. He had no idea what it was. I asked him and he shrugged and pointed me towards a blank black video case (I found out the name later). It was a film and so worth watching. Weird- No respect for decent cinema. We arrived in Nairobi at 8:30pm after 12 hours. Then we had a free meal voucher for Antonios, an African fast food chain (its like a bog standard english cafe but rougher). I had beef and chips. It wasn't very nice. Then back on another coach for another 12 hours. This one was brand new but felt more cramped. I put my chair back and the man behind me made a fuss. We came to a compromise. I felt pretty ill for the next 10 hours. Twice I had to get up and go to the front of the coach for some air. I told one of the drivers I had a fever and he replied, "what do you want?" With a bit of attitude (I was disturbing his sleep) but How Rude! How dare you speak to me like that! Firstly I am white, secondly I am sick. In Uganda the first thing they would have said is "Sorry!" I soon realised being white isn't such a special thing in Kenya. Also I had got used to the attention (mostly positive) which is given to mzungus in Uganda. I think white people are rarer there. Being back in Britain where my skin colour means little will be strange. It may take a while to get used to.
Anyway we finally arrived in Mombasa at about 8am. I felt much safer there than waiting with all our bags on the streets of Nairobi . It felt dark and grim and hostile. Like London. We checked into a big hotel which was recommended in the Lonely Planet guide to East Africa (get it if you come here). Strange place. Seemed to be some grand colonial house at one time. Now its quite run down and run by some friendly Muslim Kenyans. I told them Kenyan money smells like fish and they laughed. I also showed them fishy Ugandan notes and they said "hey, it's African money". What did I expect? Our room was large and comfy but in need of some fresh paint and new furniture. We crashed and got 3 hours sleep then woke at 11am and went to find some lunch.

We left Mombasa the next day to head to Diani beach where we had booked a cottage called Lobster Pot (Vindigo Cottages- the site is very basic). I was blown away on arrival. The beach is so close to the cottages. The sand starts about 10m down the hill from our front door. The beach is beautiful- white sand, lined by palm trees and the sound of the waves crashing on the shore brings to mind the word...serenity. Ah, I thought I had died and gone to heaven. So I spend most days lazing around, swimming in the sea, looking around the touristy shops and chilling in the internet cafe (I've spent 10 hours in here! I made friends with a friendly Kenyan called Alex (who just told me he is a cannibal!?) and the owner Jeff. I've had lots of fun in here, swapping music on YouTube and Alex has given me a CD of East African beats and also a West African singer called Alpha Blondy.
Yesterday we went snorkeling on a reef out by an island. It was 57 pounds for: breakfast, a tour of some slave caves, snorkeling on the reef, a yummy lunch (crab for starter and fish for main. see full menu here- http://www.wasini-island.com/charlie_claws.htm ) and swimming in an idyllic salty pool. I also did Scuba Diving. Wow! Oh yes, Scuba Diving! It was amazing. I've never done it properly in the ocean before but this time we went down to 9 metres. When we first jumped of the ship I panicked. I was sinking and couldn't stay afloat with all the extra weight. The waves were chucking salt water in my mouth. After 5 minutes I had become accustomed to breathing underwater and we started to slowly descend. After every metre or two you had to pop your ears by holding you nose and forcing air out through it (try it now your ears will pop). After 10 minutes I touched the sand at the bottom with my hands. It was so strange feeling to be calmly swimming under the sea with the fishes. I saw a stingray. We discussed Steve Irwin's death and came to the conclusion it must have been a misunderstanding. He was very polite, a true gentleman. We didn't spend long with the fishes but had over half an hour under the water- not bad for 10 pounds! (If you have time to spare heres more on Diving- http://www.wasini-island.com/snorkel_dive.htm ). The rest of the day was also nice.

Tonight we are going to one of the poshest restaurants in the area! Woo! It's called Ali Barbour's and looks pretty special. It's set in a cave (see- http://www.dianibeachkenya.com/cave_restaurant.html for a few pics) and is also pretty pricey. I may end up spending 15 pounds! Which is what you'd pay in London but compared to Uganda its really expensive. In Kampala you can spend 6 pounds on a whole meal in a nice restaurant- drinks included. Besides we usually only do this on a Monday, our day off. So the whole team is shocked at how much they're spending here.


Other Bits and Bobs

I am trying to tell as many Africans as possible about how bad crime is in the UK. They are all shocked. I call it counter-tourism. Many want to come to UK and think its the promised land. I tell them how hard it is for illegal immigrants and even legal ones, telling them they will be exploited as slaves. I feel it is my duty.

I've been reading Walking with God, new book by John Eldredge (Wild at Heart, Waking the Dead). Its very good, at first I was a little skeptical that he actually hears from God clearly but now I believe its possible for all of us. I've not spent a lot of time with God this week but before we went on holiday my faith was pretty strong. Strangely the more spare time I have, the harder it is to put time away for Him. I think also I feel like I don't need him as much becasue I'm on holiday when really I need him all the time. I will put some time aside this evening.

Tomorrow evening at 9pm- 7pm UK time -we leave for Kampala (24hrs in buses again). Another tortuous journey, on awful roads, in the dark, with dodgy drivers. The seat belts don't work and at times its quite nerve racking. Ugandans fear traveling by road and believe its very dangerous (which it is). Please pray for our safety!

Please pray for team unity (the 3 boys) . I find both of them hard work and don't always have the love or patience I need. Please pray that as I spend time with God he would fill me with his peace and love, that loving them would not be hard work but it would come naturally. Thank you for your prayers.

The next email may be my last! Then I'll be home and will be able to talk to you all. I could still send you updates though- I know how much you adore spending hours reading about other peoples experiences.

Hope all is good at Newlife and the church is moving into greener pastures/fields flowing in milk and honey. Boy do I miss you all on a Sunday morning.

Blessings to those that made it through this one! It was a mammoth email and took me 5 days to write (I am not deceiving).

lots of love,

Jonny x